ALL ABOARD?

As good as it gets
Yesterday we took the Alpha Pendular
train from Lisbon north to Porto. After
a short cab ride we were at the station,
had boarded our car, found our seats.
For the next two and a half hours we
smoothly sailed through the Portuguese
countryside. With power and free wifi
we were able to catch up with the news
back home. Before we knew it we were
at our final station, took a quick cab to
our hotel, checked in, and were ready
for a cocktail! One thing is certain, the
living is easy here in Portugal!

Slightly off track?
Whenever I take a train it’s always great.
They run on time and rarely get off track.
Meaning you almost always get where
you need to go when they say they will
get you there. Rather than driving to the
edge of civilization to an airport, most
train stations are located in the heart of
downtown. Most important, there are
NO security lines, x-ray machines, or
occasional body searches! So when and
why did America decide to turn it’s back
on what seems to be a fairly viable mode
of transportation?

Ready, willing, and able
By the time my generation arrived trains
had already left the station. Therefore I'll
admit that I’ve always considered taking
the train a bit passe'. Yet the railroad is
still a viable mode of transport. In my
youth they took me out to the Hamptons
or just about anywhere in the burbs. As
a young husband and father I commuted
via rail. Later there was no better way
to go from Manhattan to Philadelphia,
Washington D.C., or Boston than via the
rails. Oh, and let's not forget my favorite
train... the good old subway!

You can take the A train
As a former New Yorker I miss it's
subterranean rail system. There is no
faster way to traverse Manhattan but
deep below the mess above. For years
is was in rough shape. A graffiti clad
equivalent of a urinal, most stayed
away. Fortunately the MTA cleaned
up it's act and quickly anybody smart
enough to figure out it was the fastest
way to travel was back on board. And
while still not as sparkling as European
subways, the IRT, BMT, and IND keep
the big apple moving!

Easy does it
Navigating any city can be challenging.
However public transportation systems
provide easy ways to learn the lay of
the land while seeing the sights. Here
in Portugal we've had no need for a car.
Instead we've gotten anywhere we had
to go via train, tram, subway or even the
occasional taxi. One can't help but think
that such a group effort is better for our
eco system. Yet in cities across America
few if any of these conveyances exist.
And nothing could be more unfortunate.
When did we lose our way?

Off the beaten track
Why has America turned it's back on the
railroad?  One could suggest that it's our
innate pioneer spirit that drives our lack
of public transport. Few of us like being
confined to a specific route or somebody
else’s schedule. Since the invention of
the automobile we've been able to go
wherever... whenever! However in truth
almost of us are beyond frequent fliers.
Meaning we actively engage in what is
a modern day form of mass transport.
And while in theory faster, it's actually
always means a more than tedious trip.

High or low
One thing is certain, we Americans adore
speed. Therefore in theory flying is faster.
However when it comes to short jaunts
nothing could be father from the truth.
The fact is that getting on a plane requires
much more time and effort than hopping
on a train. Thus any trip under three hours
should be accomplished via rail if or when
it's available. As if avoiding airport security
wasn't enough motivation, the view along
your ride is well worth the price of a ticket.
How do we get back on track? Or will we
spend the rest of our lives standing in line?

The little engine that could?
Across our nation lies a rusty road
waiting to be reawakened. There
has to be some way to utilize what's
left of our rail system. Specifically
within highly populated urban cores.
Hopefully the next generation will
appreciate what we're not. My kids
seriously considered taking the train
to Montana. While in the end it just
didn't work out, they're ready and
willing to ride the rails. Hopefully
they will be our ticket to whatever
is next. All aboard America?!

How great was that?

BLAST FROM THE PAST
Three years ago I revealed my former life...
Is today's repost proof one can go back in time?

It's good. 
Isn't it grand? Isn't it great?

Yesterday I finally saw Baz Luhrmann's new
Great Gatsby. Having heard more than a few
mixed reviews, I had to see for myself. Thus
friend "C" and I took in a matinee. From the
soundtrack to performances, to sets, to frocks,
WE ADORED IT. But why wouldn't I? Odd
as it may sound, I once lived in the twenties.
So in essence I've been there... done that!

Isn't it swell? Isn't it fun?
Isn't it... nowadays?

Now that you know I'm certifiable you're
wondering where my delusional thinking
comes from. The fact is I've always had
an affinity for that time and place. One so
innate, deep, and natural that one cannot
but embrace the theory and possible reality
of reincarnation. Otherwise can does one
explain a strong connection to times past?

There's men. Everywhere jazz. Everywhere booze...

My inner flapper finds the slicked back
yet clean cut Arrow Shirt Man beyond
appealing. And while I never thought
I'd say this, I'll confess that Leonardo
DiCaprio was incredibly handsome in
the role of Mr. Jay Gatsby. His tender
portrayal of the delusional spurned ex
lover turned gangster was touching.

Everywhere life, everywhere joy, everywhere nowadays.

The twenties were one big party. An entire
generation has lost their friends and lovers
to the devastation of WWI and the Spanish
Influenza. What better way to forget the past
than to rip off your corset, shear your locks,
shorten your skirt, drink some hooch, and
DANCE! And who better to capture those
decadent days than Baz Luhrmann?

You can like the life you're living
You can life the life you like.
But nothing stays...

They say you can't go back. Yet part of
me yearns to do just that. Maybe that's
why the Passion Pit has so much appeal.
Built in 1917-1918, it feels so right, so
natural. I connect to it in ways I can't
describe. Who knows... maybe I lived
there before? Deja vu or... round deus?

BACK TO SQUARE ONE

What a bunch of squares
Amongst the most amazing things here
in Lisbon are the "azulejos." It seems
that almost every surface in this city is
clad in massive expanses of beautiful
tiles. If nothing else they are uniquely
Portuguese as I've never seen so much
tile work en masse except deep within
the Lincoln Tunnel. However these are
much more than perfunctory porcelain.
They break the grid of preconceived
notions. Both Frank and I have fallen
in love with them. So much so that all
we seem to want to do is tile one on...

Historic proportions
Obviously we had to immediately visit the
Museo Nacional de Azulejos. Located in
the former convent of Madre Deus built
in 1509 it's filled with a treasure trove of
Portuguese tiles. As we wandered through
room after room of these stunning beauties
we got more and more excited. However
the eighteenth century baroque chapel of
Santo Antonio literally made our jaws drop.
If nothing else, the Portuguese had enough
power, wealth, and swagger to go over the
top to a level of decadence that made us
both rethink Rome as sort of a hick town!

Town square
Lisbon is a living museum. Everywhere
one walks the building facades are clad
in azulejos (tiles) dating from the 15th
century on. Having been conquered by
the Islamic Moors in 714 AD - locals
emulated their conquerer's tile work.
Later inspired by the beauty of Chinese
porcelain or Renaissance Della Robbia,
azulejos continued to evolve and reflect
whatever the latest fashion was. Thus
one can also see sinuous Art Nouveau
examples and mid century modernist
masterpieces. ALL upon their walls!

Time travelers
Next we journeyed via train to Sintra, the
historic royal summer enclave. This lush
and mountainous home to five palaces is
beyond awe inspiring. Perched high above
it all, said residences offer more than just
ocean and city views. The vast National
Palace is enrobed in azulejos including
Mudejar tiles dating back to the twelfth
century. Beyond chic at the time of their
installation - today they connect the dots
back to the Muslim origins of what has
become a unique Portuguese phenomena.
We coveted every single square inch...

More than you know...
After two weeks we still can't get enough
azulejos. And so we decided that we had
to take some home. Given we're building
several large masonry garden wall, we've
got plenty of surface on which to display
azulejos. Antique stores offered pricey
bits and pieces. Visiting the flea market
we discovered mounds of the stuff. We
particularly were attracted to those circa
the 18th century. However we wondered
if at their age they could weather our
cold Montana winters! Plus how could
we bring home such a heavy burden?

Girl from the block
Blocks from our apartment we discovered
the studio of Anabela Cardozo. One of the
last remaining azulejos (azzz-jew-lay-joes)
artists, she is teaching the next generation
to work their tile magic. Anabela's work
utilizes age old techniques that when new
are more than strong enough to survive a
Montanan freeze. We commissioned two
reproductions of 18th century originals
that feature birds, deer, and a few ducks
(shown to the right here and at left below.)
We'll consider them to be the Portuguese
equivalent of our wild west! YEE HAW!

Time well spent
Souvenirs are if nothing else reminders
of times past. Who isn't tempted to bring
a bit of somewhere else home with them?
While we don't collect ashtrays our home
is filled with memories of the places we've
been. Therefore it's only fitting that we
ship home a bit of Portugal. Plus we're
thrilled that our "secret garden" will now
feature two moments of our past made
permanent. Frank's grandfather, father,
and brother were stonemasons so it "fits"
to display them on a masonry wall. Talk
about going back to square one...

LOVE IT OR LEAVE IT!

Three times a charm...
Will we ever learn?! Please enjoy this repost of a May 25th, 2013
entry filled with advice for the lovelorn. 

Till death do us part
It's amazing how many of my girlfriends
have dumped their hubbies. The majority
had been together over twenty years. But
after putting up with infidelity, boredom,
and in some cases virtual serfdom, they
finally said "enough". In theory ending
the pain seemed best. However in reality
they're suddenly alone and post a period
of adjustment - thrown into the milieu of
dating. And that my friends is never easy!

Line 'em up...
Is dumping the old worth worth
what it takes to start over? Post
divorce most realize that two
are still better than one. Thus
my hunt for Mr. Right required
kissing my share of frogs before
finally finding my prince. If at
first you don't succeed...

Pest control
Being sexy, smart, and successful isn't always
enough. If one is willing it's easy to find plenty
of interested parties. However whether they're
worth the time and effort is questionable. Many
try scams like "It's Just Lunch". A pricey match
up service that claims to be able to fix what has
been broken. One meets their match for lunch
in order to see what happens. Sadly most end
up with nothing more than indigestion. Which
means that as usual you're stuck paying the bill.

Perception is reality
Everybody wants to make a good impression.
But let's admit that chemistry plays a key role
in every relationship. Meaning when it's off,
it's best to go home. Last Sunday I sat next
to what was an obvious first and last date.
The unlucky lady sat across from Mr. Wrong.
While he did the talking, she was texting her
friend from under the table. Why couldn't
she cut her losses, face reality, say goodbye,
and stop wasting both of their time?

Love potion
In the end finding love only happens when
you finally stop trying to do just that. "D"
met "M" when she was ill and celebrating
an advanced birthday. At the time neither
seemed positive however his diagnosis was
"Let's have dinner". In a moment her world
changed and a year later they were married.
On that morning she wasn't worrying about
anything except taking care of herself. And
that's when she found love. Imagine that...

HOME AWAY FROM HOME

Checked out
This trip is different. Rather than stay
in apartments alone - we're mixing it
up. Upon arrival in Lisbon we stayed
three nights at the Solar do Castelo
(left) in order to acclimate.  Given
this was our first time here we felt it
necessary to have additional services
as we learned the lay of this land. Now
ensconced in a charming apartment we
have our own a kitchen, outdoor space,
and all the comforts of home. For us
this approach works best as at least in
theory, nothing could be more private.

Location, location, location
Our apartment lies in a small house
(shown top) situated off a narrow yet
primary street in the Alfama district.
This hilly warren of twists and turns
overlooks the river Tagus far below.
On the corner one can easily catch
the 28 Tram that runs 24/7. However
it's usually packed with tourists doing
their best to soak up some local color.
Therefore we tend to walk rather than
ride as it's simply easier. Slowly but
surely we're learning our way around
as we become "locals."

The old college try
Before arrival we both worried about
mastering Portuguese. Much like the
byways of this city, said language is
filled with surprises. Mostly because
unlike other dialects - nothing sounds
like it's spelled. Fortunately everyone
speaks english therefore my attempts
to master the lingo have been lost in
the translation. Don't get me wrong -
I'm trying - desperately trying. But
most locals are so eager to please that
I simply never get a chance to properly
say "obrigado!"

Out of context
To date we've been only treated with
kindness and respect. While we're not
natives, we try to fit in. After living in
Manhattan we know what a scourge
tourists can be. Hence we do our best
to respect the ebb and flow of local life.
We never pull out a map nor walk into
a church wearing short shorts or a tank
top. Most important, we never stop in
the midst of a crowded sidewalk so that
we can snap a picture or two. While here
we do our best to walk in their native -
albeit quite practical rubber soled shoes.

Party animals
Which brings me to the subject matter
of today's blog. This past weekend our
lovely home was invaded by a gang of
hoodlums. Three young couples felt
that had the right to be here as they'd
paid their way and had a key. However
what was disturbing was how oblivious
they were to the fact that anybody else
(i.e. we) also had a right to their space.
Not only did they spew their personal
belongings and related debris all over
our common turf - they were loud, rude,
and completely devoid of any courtesy.

Been there... done that
Unlike a hotel, we couldn't call down to
the front desk. As we waited for them to
finally go to bed - I wondered if I'd been
equally offensive as a tot. It's doubtful
as my parents taught me to treat others
with respect. And that's what our young
cohorts lacked. They didn't care about
anybody but themselves. Most offensive
was the fact that they showed no regret
for their actions. Arrogance is rarely if
ever attractive. And thus far I've found
that within a sea of tourists, the young
are usually the ugliest of Americans.

Any place but here
When one enters another's space, it's
customary to treat it like your own.
Meaning you treasure, preserve, and
maintain it. Apparently these kids
maintain a different set of rules here
versus there. Otherwise why would
they abuse their privileges only to
leave behind a mess for someone else
to clean up? What bothers me most is
that I'm not sure this doesn't happen
in the communities they call home.
Sadly I'm fairly sure they're equally
self consumed wherever... whenever.

Old enough to know better
One of the community organizations
that I'm involved in is conducting a
survey about our downtown. To date
the results are illuminating. However
what's fascinating are the comments
made on a Facebook post promoting
said survey. The most negative and
misguided of which have come from
youngsters. Rarely is what they say
based in fact. Instead they rattle off
reckless rumor and innuendo. All of
which indicates that they truly don't
realize that this is all about THEM!

Future tense
You see, whatever lasting change one can
make in their lifetime rarely benefits the
here and now. Thus the efforts of many in
Lewistown Montana has everything to do
with "next." Which should be more than
enough reason for youngsters to actively
engage in any improvement process. There
are several young folks who do more than
their share locally. However they are in the
minority. Given our children tend to focus
on themselves - might I suggest that they
consider investing in their future, not ours?
It's time they took care of themselves...

Front and center
It seems that we may have failed in our
collective efforts to raise happy, well
balanced children. If nothing else they
are confident. Therefore why are we so
surprised that they focus on themselves
only? The problem is that unless they
wake up and quickly step up, there may
be little left standing for their kids. So
how can we oldsters teach other people's
children how to act like adults? We must
simply lead by example. One can only
hope that slowly but surely they'll get
the message and finally join the party!